Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations

When I found I was coming to New York for the summer, the first thing I did was google the dates for the Schiaparelli and Prada exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Both designers have been huge influences on me and my work, and I was incredibly excited to see how their very distinct styles could be put together. So I got together a plan and a friend, and we made our way to the upper east side to partake in this once in a lifetime event.

Trompe L'oeil pleating in Prada (left) and Schiaparelli (right)

The exhibit focuses on the idea of the two women being able to sit down together for a drink, and discuss their views on women, politics, and of course, fashion. Prada explains her focus on the "waist down", explaining that there are "so many things happening from the waist down, sex... giving birth, being attached to the earth"; while Schiap (depicted here by actress Judy Davis) explains that dressing from the waist up was important in her time, as cafes were becoming popular, and most women would be seen sitting down.

I really enjoyed this idea of these two women bantering on about their very distinct views. The videos (which you can view here, at the Met's website), combined with the quotes on the walls and in the exhibits, made them seem like dear friends that are comfortable enough with each other to tear down the other's work. A quote from Prada explaining why she would never collaborate with a conventional artist hangs right next to Schiaparelli's Cousteau and Dali inspired gowns.

"Fashion is art." ~ Elsa Schiaparelli

"Fashion is not art. Fashion designers make clothes and they have to sell them. We have less creative freedom than artists.” ~ Miuccia Prada

Images via vogue.co.uk

metmuseum.org

Soft Rebellion

Click to enlarge!

These were the final pieces that I decided to make from my collection. Everything is hand dyed.

Well I have my final shots back from the photographer, and I am incredibly pleased with the results.
Many thanks to Deanna Palkowski, Negar Hooshmand, and Matthew Burditt for their immense help with making the shoot go smoothly.

Now, a little bit about the collection. I started off wanting to make something completely structured, based off gothic architecture and, more specifically, specific churches and the architecture of those. As you can see... I strayed pretty far from that. I guess the closest remnant of that initial inspiration you can see here is the use of lace, which I was originally going to use as stained glass panels, and the wine-dyeing methods. Eventually the collection took a turn towards surrealism, with artists such as Max Ernst providing the inspiration for the colour palette.

Max Ernst , "Ein Mond ist guter Dinge" , 1970

Once I discovered different dyeing methods, they quickly took over my inspiration and I was trying everything and anything I could get my hands on to dye fabric. It was a fascinating learning experience; I am looking forward to continuing experiments with natural dyes and seeing what else I can come up with! I did use some synthetic dyes as well (the blue in the last dress, and the yellow dye, as well as the print in the first dress), but given more time (and money for test fabric... yikes), it would be interesting to experiment some more.

Coffee dyeing process- note that these shots were taken to look pretty, I didn't actually try to dye fabric in fancy bowls 

Using Setasilk paints and kitchen sponges to create the yellow dress print.

-T